{"id":865,"date":"2016-05-13T08:48:36","date_gmt":"2016-05-13T08:48:36","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/wineandnoise.com\/articles\/?p=865"},"modified":"2016-08-30T14:20:51","modified_gmt":"2016-08-30T14:20:51","slug":"le-vent-souffle-en-ardeche","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/le-vent-souffle-en-ardeche\/","title":{"rendered":"Live report : Le vent souffle en Ard\u00e8che"},"content":{"rendered":"

CLICK HERE FOR ENGLISH VERSION<\/a><\/p>\n

Y<\/span>\"y\"<\/span>\u2019a des trucs \u00e0 voir en Arizona\u00a0?<\/strong> Ouais bof. Tu peux longer la fronti\u00e8re et son mur en \u00e9coutant Destruction Unit, visiter les vignes de Jerome<\/a>\u00a0en \u00e9coutant Tool. Rien de bien excitant. Les vrais choses se passent de l\u2019autre c\u00f4t\u00e9\u00a0du mur : les tortillas sans additifs<\/a>, les f\u00eates du pulque<\/a>, la vraie musique de Hipster<\/a>. Le pays qui sans complexe g\u00e9n\u00e8re Hocico et Frida Khalo. Et pendant ce temps, tu essayes de interroger sur\u00a0la qualit\u00e9 des vins de c\u00e9l\u00e9brit\u00e9s<\/a>. Sors un peu de ta bulle. Ouvre-toi. Calexico\u00a0? Ouais. Peut-on utiliser des gimmicks pour faire une musique originale\u00a0? Le tralala mexicano est-il un refuge punk<\/a>\u00a0? Ouais, \u00e0 voir la cumbia garantir l\u2019ouverture d’esprit des festivals de petits blancs, t\u2019as peut \u00eatre raison. Calexico, \u00e0 d\u00e9faut de saccager des chambres d\u2019h\u00f4tel pour maintenir l\u2019esprit rock\u2019n\u2019roll, ont choisi les voies de traverses et les grands espaces pour nourrir une musique festive mais pas relou. Il fallait donc leur parler des tr\u00e9sors m\u00e9connus de nos vignes escarp\u00e9es. En France, on n\u2019a pas le Grand Canyon mais on a l\u2019Ard\u00e8che.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\u00ab\u00a0Les Ricains<\/a>, tu verras, ils aiment bien le pinard des fois, mais t\u2019inqui\u00e8te, ils y connaissent pas grand-chose\u00a0\u00bb<\/em>. Bon \u00e9l\u00e8ve, j\u2019ai un peu potass\u00e9 mon sujet quand m\u00eame, histoire de pas d\u00e9shonorer la patrie, on sait jamais. Nous y voil\u00e0. Une petite gamme de jolis vins d\u2019Ard\u00e8che \u00e0 l\u2019image de Calexico : complexes et vari\u00e9s, faits par des passionn\u00e9s qui savent ce qu\u2019ils veulent et ma\u00eetrisent leur sujet mais ne d\u00e9daignent pas quelques incursions exp\u00e9rimentales.<\/p>\n

Quand on veut avoir l’air pointu<\/strong><\/h2>\n

On ouvre la premi\u00e8re bouteille avec Joey Burns et John Convertino. \u00ab\u00a0Quel morceau tu as choisi pour ce vin\u00a0?\u00a0\u00bb<\/em>, me demande Joey. Le viognier, ce c\u00e9page si explosif, avec ses effluves de fleurs et de fruits qui te remplissent la t\u00eate, d\u2019apparence si facile et \u00e9vidente que certains amateurs de vins semblent craindre d\u2019avouer que c\u2019est bon, de peur de passer pour des gens peu exigeants. Quand on veut avoir l\u2019air pointu, on peut h\u00e9siter \u00e0 avouer qu\u2019on aime des choses si faciles qu\u2019on sait que presque tout le monde va les aimer aussi. Va donc essayer de te faire des potes dans un club<\/a>\u00a0de Williamsburg en tentant de brancher les habitu\u00e9s sur ta passion pour Muse ou, disons, Madonna. Et pourtant, si \u00e7a te fait l\u2019effet \u00ab\u00a0It\u2019s heaven on earth in her embrace, her gentle touch and her smiling face, I just don\u2019t know what to do, I\u2019m too afraid to love you\u00a0\u00bb<\/em>\u2026 Mais si tu veux aimer, aime donc ! Et si tu ressens une infime amertume en fin de bouche comme sur ce viognier, ne crois pas que c\u2019est un d\u00e9faut\u00a0: l\u2019amour lui-m\u00eame ne peut-il parfois \u00eatre un peu amer\u00a0?\u00a0J\u2019envoie donc les Black Keys, \u00ab\u00a0I\u2019m too afraid to love you<\/a>\u00ab\u00a0.\u00a0 Joey et John ont pris une gorg\u00e9e et ne respirent plus, concentr\u00e9s comme s\u2019ils passaient une audition pour sortir leur premier album. \u00ab\u00a0La musique me semble un peu lourde peut-\u00eatre, <\/em>remarque Joey, mais \u00e7a marche. Pourquoi ce morceau\u00a0?<\/em>\u00a0\u00bb \u00ab\u00a0Parce que c\u2019est un vin blanc, alors avec les Black Keys c\u2019est logique, non\u00a0?…\u00a0\u00bb<\/em>, intervient celle qui est cens\u00e9 m\u2019apporter un soutien ind\u00e9fectible pour cette soir\u00e9e \u00e0 fort enjeu intellectuel et \u00e9motionnel. Merci. Bref. Joey et John rient, certes \u00e0 mes d\u00e9pens, mais ils rient.<\/p>\n

\"2016-05-12<\/p>\n

On tombe d\u2019accord pour dire que Gaby Moreno qui reprend \u00ab\u00a0Laisse tomber les filles<\/a>\u00a0\u00bb\u00a0ou m\u00eame Calexico avec Fran\u00e7oiz Breut sur \u00ab\u00a0Si tu disais<\/a>\u00a0\u00bb\u00a0iraient bien aussi. Peut-\u00eatre mieux. Krystof, qui tourne avec le groupe et a accessoirement ouvert le Cordobar, un bar \u00e0 vin \u00e0 Berlin, se voit interrog\u00e9 par nos deux comp\u00e8res pour identifier le c\u00e9page (t\u2019inqui\u00e8te, Krys, tu peux te tromper la conscience tranquille\u2026 T\u2019as lu les travaux sur le go\u00fbt de Gil Morrot<\/a>, vigneron et chercheur au CNRS\u00a0?\u00a0 de quoi d\u00e9tendre tout amateur de vin qui stresse lors d\u2019un blind-test).\u00a0Bon, j\u2019admets que je ne suis pas all\u00e9 au plus facile avec mon Black Keys et mon analyse 3e<\/sup> degr\u00e9, mais pour paraphraser Claude Levi Strauss, qui avait dit \u00e7a \u00e0 propos des aliments\u00a0: il ne suffit pas qu\u2019un vin soit bon \u00e0 boire, encore faut-il qu\u2019il soit bon \u00e0 penser. Comment appr\u00e9cier de manger de la viande tout en ne supportant pas l\u2019id\u00e9e m\u00eame d\u2019un abattoir\u00a0? Est-ce qu\u2019un vin fait par un grand domaine appartenant \u00e0 une banque est bon\u00a0? Est-ce que la fin justifie les moyens\u00a0?… Sans doute, parfois.\u00a0 Mais tente l\u2019exp\u00e9rience\u00a0: ferme les yeux, pense bien fort \u00e0 la banque et go\u00fbte le vin. Alors, c\u2019est comment ? Si cela g\u00e9n\u00e8re chez toi un bonheur intense, rends-toi vite ici.<\/a> En revanche, si en buvant un verre tu ressens davantage de satisfaction \u00e0 penser \u00e0 un jeune couple passionn\u00e9 qui se d\u00e9m\u00e8ne pour cultiver des vignes sur des\u00a0 terrasses difficiles d\u2019acc\u00e8s dans un superbe paysage montagneux, \u00e0 s\u2019appliquer \u00e0 faire un vin d\u00e9licieux malgr\u00e9 des conditions pr\u00e9caires, alors profite de ce viognier de Beno\u00eet Salel et Elise Renaud.<\/p>\n

Cette bizarre syntaxe \u00e9trang\u00e8re<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Comment ne pas proposer \u00e0 Calexico, qui a toujours compt\u00e9 tant de nationalit\u00e9s diff\u00e9rentes parmi ses membres, qui a fait tant de chansons sur les fronti\u00e8res et le d\u00e9racinement, un vin fait par un d\u00e9racin\u00e9\u00a0? Sur les huit albums que le groupe a sorti depuis Spoke<\/em> (1997), pas un n\u2019a laiss\u00e9 ce sujet de c\u00f4t\u00e9, tel le sommet Crystal frontier \u00ab\u00a0Both sides keeping a close eye \/ watching the bullets fly here on the crystal frontier\u00a0\u00bb<\/em>. Andrea Calek<\/a>, sorte de mannequin punk<\/a> n\u00e9 en Boh\u00e8me,\u00a0 R\u00e9publique Tch\u00e8que, a d\u00e9cid\u00e9 de s\u2019installer en Ard\u00e8che pour y faire un vin nature, parfois excentrique ou provocant. Mais sous contr\u00f4le. L\u2019homme est certes \u00e0 part (rien de tel pour bien s\u2019int\u00e9grer dans un village ard\u00e9chois que de vivre dans une caravane au milieu des vignes, de faire un vin plus bio que bio en arborant un look proto-punk assaisonn\u00e9 d\u2019un caract\u00e8re bien tremp\u00e9), mais il sait ce qu\u2019il fait, et ce n\u2019est pas n\u2019importe quoi. Son primeur 2015 \u00ab\u00a0A toi nous\u00a0\u00bb (\u00ab\u00a0Ca veut dire quoi\u00a0?\u00a0\u00bb<\/em>, demande John. \u00ab\u00a0Ah\u00a0? que quand je t\u2019en donne \u00e0 boire, on devient nous\u00a0?… I like it\u00a0!\u00a0\u00bb<\/em>) envoie du fruit frais plein la bouche, avec les petites piques du CO2 r\u00e9siduel de rigueur, et aussi quelques petits go\u00fbts inhabituels qu\u2019on a un peu de mal \u00e0 identifier. \u00ab\u00a0I hear strange things\u2026<\/a> \u00bb, dit Marlon Williams, jeune chanteur n\u00e9o-z\u00e9landais qui chante la mort de sa femme en 1989 (il n\u2019\u00e9tait pas m\u00eame n\u00e9), en collant des paroles bien sombres sur un air de balade folk. \u00c9trange\u2026 Et pourquoi avoir choisi une chanson si tragique pour un vin\u00a0? John\u00a0remarque : \u00ab\u00a0On ne dirait pas qu\u2019il vient de Nouvelle-Z\u00e9lande. Et, d\u2019ailleurs, ce vin ne ressemble pas \u00e0 un vin tch\u00e8que\u00a0!\u00a0\u00bb<\/em>\u00a0Tout \u00e7a est vraiment tr\u00e8s bizarre.\u00a0En tout cas, John est de plus en plus convaincu par le concept W&N\u00a0: \u00ab\u00a0Certains morceaux de musique sont comme des vins,<\/em> remarque-t-il. Au premier abord on a du mal \u00e0 les appr\u00e9cier, puis on y revient un peu plus tard, on s\u2019habitue, et on y trouve des qualit\u00e9s qu\u2019on y voyait pas au d\u00e9part. Et on finit par les aimer. Et parfois, on se dit aussi, pas moyen que j\u2019en avale une autre gorg\u00e9e\u00a0!\u00a0\u00bb.<\/em><\/p>\n

\"2016-05-12<\/p>\n

J\u00e9r\u00f4me Jouret, lui aussi, fait du vin bio, et m\u00eame nature autant que possible. Mais dans sa version plut\u00f4t consensuelle, plus droite (\u00ab\u00a0certains copains vignerons nature me le reprochent un peu d\u2019ailleurs, mais c\u2019est comme \u00e7a que je l\u2019aime\u00a0!\u00a0\u00bb<\/em>, assume-t-il). Et oui, amis petits chimistes, you won\u2019t believe it, on peut faire\u00a0 AVEC SEULEMENT DU JUS DE RAISIN, un vin sans gaz, sans d\u00e9viations diverses, l\u00e9ger et plein de fruit mais aussi complexe. Bref un vin qui va plaire aussi aux non militants. Si on ne peut d\u00e9nier \u00e0 la d\u00e9marche du vin naturel un panache certain et plusieurs belles r\u00e9alisations, son dogme de la non-intervention peut aussi s\u2019accompagner de certains ar\u00f4mes d\u00e9stabilisants (\u00ab\u00a0apr\u00e8s 3 semaines d\u2019a\u00e9ration il devrait \u00eatre mieux, non\u00a0?\u00a0\u00bb<\/em>).<\/p>\n

\n

une chanson si tragique pour un vin<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

A partir de quand le vigneron doit-il s\u2019abstenir d\u2019intervenir\u00a0afin de ne pas d\u00e9naturer la typicit\u00e9 de son vin ? Inversement, \u00e0 partir de quand doit-il intervenir pour que les d\u00e9viations ne masquent pas cette pr\u00e9cieuse typicit\u00e9\u00a0?… Autant de r\u00e9ponses que de vignerons, et tant mieux. \u00ab\u00a0Ce vin est tr\u00e8s bien \u00e9quilibr\u00e9, en tout cas\u00a0\u00bb, estime Joey.\u00a0 \u00ab\u00a0Strawberries, cherries, and an angel\u2019s kiss in spring\u2026\u00a0\u00bb, nous chantent pendant ce temps Lee Hazlewood et Nancy Sinatra dans Summer Wine<\/a>.\u00a0\u00ab\u00a0Le vin devrait toujours \u00eatre fait comme \u00e7a, avec juste du jus de raisin<\/em>\u00ab\u00a0, place en passant Jairo Zavala, le guitariste espagnol du groupe, lui aussi fin connaisseur \u2013 ma parole, toute la bande est fan de vins (il me dira un peu plus tard\u00a0: \u00ab\u00a0Hey, tu connais le domaine Ochota Barrel, en Australie\u00a0? Ils font un super vin bio, ils ont m\u00eame appel\u00e9 une de leurs cuv\u00e9es Fugazi, le groupe de Washington DC\u00a0!\u00a0Et tout \u00e7a au milieu des koalas<\/em>\u00ab\u00a0. Et des wombats aussi sans doute (oui, en fait j\u2019ai fait un pari \u00e0 propos du fait de placer le mot wombat<\/a> dans cet article).\u00a0Joey en profite pour se souvenir du film \u00ab\u00a0A year in Burgundy\u00a0\u00bb, o\u00f9 il avait \u00e9t\u00e9 frapp\u00e9 par le contraste entre des vignerons qui voient le travail \u00e0 la vigne comme un mode de vie, en famille, laissant une large place \u00e0 l\u2019intuition et au ressenti, face \u00e0 ceux qui le voient surtout comme un business assist\u00e9 par ordinateur\u2026<\/p>\n

Objective excellence<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Sombre, \u00e9pic\u00e9, concentr\u00e9, complexe, \u00e9quilibr\u00e9 (quoiqu’un peu bois\u00e9 peut-\u00eatre, mais \u00e7a devrait se tasser avec les ann\u00e9es), fallait bien d\u00e9goupiller un St Jo (St\u00e9phane Robert, domaine du Tunnel 2014).\u00a0La face cossue de l\u2019Ard\u00e8che, quoi. Du haut de ses rudes coteaux cultiv\u00e9s depuis la colonisation romaine. Mais notre bande \u2013 qui a depuis \u00e9t\u00e9 rejointe par son bassiste Scott Colberg qui rattrape son retard comme il peut, suivi de pr\u00e8s par la team W&N\u00a0: Tiens et t\u2019as go\u00fbt\u00e9 \u00e7ui-l\u00e0\u00a0? c\u2019est Summer wine ) \u2013 en a vu d\u2019autre. Le noir breuvage, qui s\u2019accommode brillamment (je peux pas faire des bides \u00e0 chaque fois, quand m\u00eame) de la compagnie \u00e0 la fois puissante et d\u00e9licate de Mark Lanegan et Isobel Campbell,<\/a> n\u2019est pourtant de toute \u00e9vidence pas leur favori de la soir\u00e9e. Alors qu\u2019ils le jugent excellent et ne lui reconnaissent aucun d\u00e9faut. Trop de shiraz en backstage\u00a0au fil des tourn\u00e9es ?… trop grand classique\u00a0?… Peut-\u00eatre. Je suis aux anges. Pas qu\u2019ils ne soient pas fan de ce St Jo, il est objectivement excellent en effet et n\u2019a pas besoin de nous pour se d\u00e9fendre. Mon ami S\u00f8ren Kierkegaard me disait derni\u00e8rement que \u00ab\u00a0plus on pense de fa\u00e7on objective, moins on existe\u00a0\u00bb<\/em>. Quelque part, avoir davantage envie de boire un Jouret ou un Calek qu\u2019un noble Saint Joseph, c\u2019est le d\u00e9but de l\u2019existence\u2026 Les Ricains, c\u2019est plus ce que c\u2019\u00e9tait.<\/p>\n

\"2016-05-12<\/p>\n

PS\u00a0: Joey Burns, qui va prochainement sortir son guide des vins (il en serait capable, je vous jure), vous conseille aujourd\u2019hui\u00a0: le carmenere du Chili,\u00a0 Gut Oggau (Autriche), Tinto Valbuena (Espagne), dos cabesas (Arizona), les vins de la Douro Valley (Portugal)\u2026\u00a0 J\u2019esp\u00e8re qu\u2019il n\u2019oubliera pas d\u2019y faire figurer le Zinfandel primitivo que le grand-p\u00e8re de John faisait chez lui dans des f\u00fbts \u00e0 whisky, dans les Pouilles (Italie).<\/p>\n

Merci aux membres de Calexico pour leur gentillesse incroyable, leur curiosit\u00e9 et leurs connaissances viticoles mondialis\u00e9es qu\u2019ils partagent avec un plaisir \u00e9vident. Et aussi pour leur belle musique, bien s\u00fbr…\u00a0\u00c9videment, m<\/em>erci \u00e0 notre \u00c9picerie ch\u00e9rie. Moderne et\u00a0\u00c9ternelle. \u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n

Cet article a \u00e9t\u00e9 r\u00e9dig\u00e9 par Renaud Pradon. Renaud est un gentleman, il n’est pas sur les r\u00e9seaux sociaux.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

CLIQUEZ ICI POUR LIRE LA VERSION FRANCAISE<\/a><\/p>\n

\u201cThe Yanks, you\u2019ll see, they sometimes like wine, but don\u2019t worry, they don\u2019t know much about it\u201d. As a good pupil, I still studied my subject a little, just so I wouldn\u2019t put my nation to shame, you never know. A small selection of nice wines from the Ard\u00e8che region, modeled on Calexico\u2019s image: complex and varied, made by passionate people who know what they want and master their subject withoutlooking down on a few experimental incursions. We open the first bottle with Joey Burns and John Convertino.<\/p>\n

When you want to look the part
\n<\/strong><\/h2>\n

\u201c Which track did you chose for this wine?\u201d, Joey asks me. The Viognier, this explosive variety of vine, with its emanation of flowers and fruits that fill up your head. At first glance it looks so straightforward and obvious that some wine amateurs seem scared to admit that it\u2019s nice, fearing they might look like their standards are not up to the task. When one wants to appear specialized, isn\u2019t there a risk in admitting that they like things that are so easy to like, things that almost everybody else is likely to like too? Just try making friends in an alternative club in Williamsburg, trying to connect up the regulars with your passion for Muse, or let\u2019s say Madonna. Good luck. And yet if its effect on you is \u201cIt\u2019s heaven on earth in her embrace, her gentle touch and her smiling face, I just don\u2019t know what to do. I\u2019m too afraid to love you\u201d\u2026 But if you want to like, then do! And if there is a slight bitter aftertaste in your mouth, just like with this Viognier, don\u2019t you dare think it\u2019s a fault: can\u2019t love itself be a little bitter sometimes?…<\/p>\n

So I start up the Black Keys, \u2018I\u2019m too afraid to love you\u2019. Joey and John have had a sip and they\u2019ve stopped breathing, focused as though they were taking an audition for the release of their first album. \u201cThe music seems perhaps a little heavy to me, remarks Joey, but it works. Why this track?\u201d \u201cBecause it\u2019s a white wine, so with the Black Keys it makes sense, don\u2019t you think?\u201d, steps in the one person who is supposed to provide me with unfailing support this evening. An evening that has intellectually and emotionally high stakes I might add. Anyway. Joey and John laugh, admittedly at my expense, but they laugh. We reach an agreement to say that Gaby Moreno covering \u2018Laisse tomber les filles\u2019 or even Calexico with Fran\u00e7oiz Breut on \u2018Si tu disais\u2019 would go well too, even better. Krystof, who tours with the band and also opened the Cordobar, a wine bar in Berlin, gets interrogated by our two partners in crime to identify the grape variety (don\u2019t worry Krys, you can make a mistake with a clear conscience\u2026 Did you read the work by Gil Morrot, winemaker and CNRS researcher, about taste? Just what you need to loosen any wine amateur in a state of stress during a blind test).<\/p>\n

\"2016-05-12<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Ok, I\u2019ll admit I didn\u2019t go down the easiest route with my Black Keys and third degree analysis. Yet let me paraphrase Claude Levi Strauss, who had said the following about food: it\u2019s not enough for a wine to be good to drink, it also requires being good to think. How can you enjoy eating meat when you cannot bear the idea of an abattoir? Is a wine made by a great domain belonging to a bank good? Does the end justify the means? \u2026 Perhaps, sometimes. But try this: close your eyes, think really hard about the bank and taste the wine. What do you think? If the feeling it generates in you is intense happiness, then quickly go there. However, if when drinking a glass you feel more satisfaction thinking about a passionate young couple who go out of their way to cultivate vines that are situated on barely accessible terraces, within a superb mountainous landscape, and who try their hardest to make a delicious wine in spite of precarious conditions, then please enjoy this Viognier by Beno\u00eet Salel and Elise Renaud.<\/p>\n

this weird foreign syntaxe
\n<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Calexico has always had so many nationalities amongst its members and written so many songs about frontiers and uprooting. On the eight albums that the band has recorded since Spoke (1997), maybe none has forgot these themes, like in the beautiful Crystal frontier :\u201dBoth sides keeping a close eye \/ watching a close eye \/watching the bullets fly here on the crystal frontier\u201d. So how could we not put forward a wine made by an uprooted figure? Andrea Calek, this kind of punk model born in Bohemia, Czech Republic, decided to set up in the Ard\u00e8che to produce a natural wine, sometimes eccentric and provoking. Yet under control. Admittedly the man is one of a kind (nothing beats living in a caravan in the middle of the vines, making wine more organic than organic whilst sporting a proto-punk look spiced up with a tenacious personality to integrate in an Ard\u00e9chois village), but he knows what he\u2019s doing, and it\u2019s far from being rubbish. His 2015 primeur wine \u2018A toi nous\u2019 (\u201cWhat does it mean?, asks John. Ah? That when I give you some to drink, we become us?… I like it!\u201d) fills your mouth with fresh fruit, with the little pikes of residual CO2 de rigueur, and also a few hints of unusual tastes that we find a bit difficult to identify. \u201cI hear strange things\u2026\u201d, says Marlon Williams, a young singer from New Zealand who croons about his wife\u2019s death in 1989 (a time when he wasn\u2019t even born), pasting some dark lyrics over a folk ballad tune. Strange\u2026 And why choose such a tragic song for a wine? John points out: \u201cHe doesn\u2019t sound like he comes from New Zealand. And by the way, this wine doesn\u2019t taste like a Czech wine!\u201d This is all so very strange.<\/p>\n

In any case, John is beginning to be more and more convinced by the W&N concept: \u201cSome music pieces are like wines. At first, it\u2019s hard to appreciate them, then you get back to them a little later, you get used to them and find some qualities you couldn\u2019t see to start with. And you end up liking them. And sometimes you also think: there\u2019s no way I\u2019m going to have another sip !\u201d<\/p>\n

\"2016-05-12<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

J\u00e9r\u00f4me Jouret also makes organic and natural wine, but in his rather consensual version, straighter (\u201csome of my natural winemaking friends actually reproach me a bit for it, but that\u2019s how I like it\u201d, he owns up). Oh yeah, my little chemist friends, you won\u2019t believe it but USING JUST GRAPE JUICE we can actually make a wine with no gas, no diverse deviations, light and full of fruit but also complex. In other words, a wine that will also appeal to the non-militants. If we cannot deny that the natural wine approach has a certain panache and a few nice achievements, its non-intervention dogma can also be accompanied by some destabilizing flavors (kind of like \u201cafter 3 weeks of airing it should be better, shouldn\u2019t it?\u201d). When should the winemaker stop intervening in order not to hide his wine\u2019s character ? Conversely, when should he intervene so these deviations don\u2019t conceal this precious and particular character?… There are as many answers as there are winemakers, and that\u2019s just as well. \u201cA very well balanced wine\u201d, reckons Joey. \u201cStrawberries, cherries, and an angel\u2019s kiss in spring\u2026\u201d sing in the meantime Lee Hazlewood and Nancy Sinatra in Summer Wine.<\/p>\n

\n

using just grape juice<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

\u201cWine should always be made this way, using just grape juice\u201d, slips the band\u2019s Spanish guitarist Jairo Zavala in passing, also a real connoisseur \u2013 my word, the whole band are wine fanatics (later he will say to me: \u2018Hey, do you know the Ochota Barrel domain in Australia? They make a great organic wine and they even named one of their cuvee Fugazi, the band from Washington DC! All that in the middle of the koalas.\u201d Probably also wombats (yes, actually I made a bet I could place the word wombat in this article).<\/p>\n

Joey takes this opportunity to remember the film \u2018A year in Burgundy\u2019, where he was struck by the contrast between winemakers who consider their work in the vines as a way of life, as part of a family, where intuition and feeling are key, and those who see it mostly as a business supported by a computer\u2026 (\u201cWhat do you mean my Bordeaux reminds you of a Californian wine? Impossible, monsieur, they don\u2019t have our terroir, obviously, it\u2019s got nothing to do with it\u201d).<\/p>\n

Objective excellence<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Dark, spicy, concentrated, complex, balanced (although perhaps a little woody, but that should subside with age), there was no choice but to crack open a St Joseph (St\u00e9phane Robert, domaine du Tunnel 2014). In other words, the posh side of the Ard\u00e8che. From the top of its harsh hillsides that have been cultivated since Roman colonization. But our band members – which meanwhile have been joined by bass player Scott Colberg, who is trying to catch up on what he missed as best he can, followed closely by the W&N team: \u201cThere, did you try that one? It\u2019s Summer Wine !\u201d) – weren\u2019t born yesterday. The black beverage, which complements brilliantly (I can\u2019t flop every time, for goodness sake) Mark Lanegan and Isobell Campbell\u2019s at once powerful and delicate company, is clearly not their favorite of the evening. Although they judge it to be excellent and cannot fault it. Too much Shiraz backstage, touring over the years?… Too much of a classic?… Maybe. I am over the moon. Not that they\u2019re not fans of this St Jo, objectively it is excellent indeed and doesn\u2019t need us to defend it. My friend S\u00f8ren Kierkegaard was telling me recently that \u201cthe more we think objectively, the less we exist\u201d. In some ways, wanting to drink a Jouret or a Calek more than a noble Saint Joseph is the beginning of existing\u2026 The Yanks, they\u2019re not what they used to be.<\/p>\n

\"2016-05-12<\/p>\n

Written by Renaud Pradon.<\/p>\n

PS: Joey Burns, whose wine guide is coming out soon (he could so do it, I promise you), recommends for you today: the Carmenere from Chili, the Gut Oggau wines (Austria), Tinto Valbuena (Spain), Dos Cabesas (Arizona), wines from the Douro Valley (Portugal)\u2026 I hope he won\u2019t forget to include the Zinfandel Primitivo that John\u2019s grand-father used to make at home using whisky barrels, in Apulia (Italie).<\/em><\/p>\n

Many thanks to the members of Calexico for their incredible kindness, curiosity and worldwide knowledge about winemaking which they share with obvious pleasure. And also for the beautiful music, of course\u2026<\/em><\/p>\n

Thanks to the Epicerie Moderne, Feyzin (69), FR.<\/em><\/p>\n

Thank you Agn\u00e8s Young for the translation.<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

CLICK HERE FOR ENGLISH VERSION Y\u2019a des trucs \u00e0 voir en Arizona\u00a0? Ouais bof. Tu peux longer la fronti\u00e8re et son mur en \u00e9coutant Destruction Unit, visiter les vignes de Jerome\u00a0en \u00e9coutant Tool. Rien de bien excitant. Les vrais choses se passent de l\u2019autre c\u00f4t\u00e9\u00a0du mur : les tortillas sans additifs, les f\u00eates du pulque, la vraie musique de Hipster. Le pays qui sans complexe g\u00e9n\u00e8re Hocico et Frida Khalo. Et pendant ce temps, tu essayes de interroger sur\u00a0la qualit\u00e9 des vins de c\u00e9l\u00e9brit\u00e9s. Sors un peu de ta bulle. Ouvre-toi. Calexico\u00a0? Ouais. Peut-on utiliser des gimmicks pour faire une …<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":879,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[7],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/865"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=865"}],"version-history":[{"count":28,"href":"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/865\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":914,"href":"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/865\/revisions\/914"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/879"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=865"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=865"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=865"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}