{"id":92,"date":"2013-06-02T10:15:29","date_gmt":"2013-06-02T10:15:29","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/wineandnoise.com\/articles\/?p=92"},"modified":"2014-02-18T15:51:43","modified_gmt":"2014-02-18T15:51:43","slug":"clusel-roch-vs-swans","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/clusel-roch-vs-swans\/","title":{"rendered":"Les Grandes Places ne meurent jamais"},"content":{"rendered":"<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><a href=\"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/clusel-roch-vs-swans\/2\/\">CLICK HERE FOR ENGLISH VERSION<\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong style=\"line-height: 1.5em;\"><span class=\"wi-dropcap\"><span style=\"display:none;\">L<\/span><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-content\/themes\/blank\/images\/aoc\/aoc-l.gif\" alt=\"l\" \/><\/span>a C\u00f4te R\u00f4tie c\u2019est le name dropping \u00e0 l\u2019am\u00e9ricaine<\/strong><span style=\"line-height: 1.5em;\">, c\u2019est le coteau ravin\u00e9, les grandes enseignes et une densit\u00e9 digne des rizi\u00e8res au Vietnam. C\u2019est l\u2019intensit\u00e9 de main d\u2019\u0153uvre avec vue sur la p\u00e9trochimie, tout le charme de la vall\u00e9e du Rh\u00f4ne septentrionale, les\u00a0<\/span><a style=\"line-height: 1.5em;\" href=\"http:\/\/www.vinsdevienne.com\/html\/pdf\/archeveques\/FT_Archeveques_Cote-Rotie.pdf\">l\u00e9gendes impayables<\/a><span style=\"line-height: 1.5em;\">\u00a0sur la C\u00f4te Blonde et la C\u00f4te Brune qui font de cet endroit le Mulholand drive du 69. Depuis la nuit des temps les chevelures se partagent les destins. C\u2019est l\u2019appellation qui donne ses lettres de noblesses au mot \u00ab r\u00f4ti \u00bb, pourtant pas facile. Associ\u00e9 au poulet ; c\u2019est vitrine grasses, broches d\u2019un autre \u00e2ge et nourriture approximative. Associ\u00e9 \u00e0 la c\u00f4te c\u2019est grand seigneur, fin connaisseur et palpitations chez les nouveaux riches. Oui, c\u2019est le terroir d\u2019exception, les micaschistes et granits que tous s\u2019arrachent, on imagine d\u00e9j\u00e0 Jay-Z quitter le Courvoisier pour s\u2019adonner aux plaisirs de cette frissonnante syrah du nord. Mais ce matin, un temps pourri d\u2019un mois de mai qui s\u2019\u00e9ternise en version novembre, c\u2019est n\u2019est pas le hip hop qui arrive dans mes oreilles. C\u2019est\u00a0Lunacy\u00a0<\/span><span style=\"line-height: 1.5em;\">qui r\u00e9sonne dans cette longueur de bouche obstin\u00e9e, si pr\u00e9cise dans sa complexit\u00e9. <\/span><strong style=\"line-height: 1.5em;\">Swans VS Clusel Roch,<\/strong><span style=\"line-height: 1.5em;\"> il fallait que l\u2019ent\u00eatement ait un go\u00fbt et une oreille.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><!--more--><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><iframe loading=\"lazy\" src=\"\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/-P7fBUDkb90?rel=0\" height=\"360\" width=\"640\" allowfullscreen=\"\" frameborder=\"0\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<h2 style=\"text-align: center;\"><\/h2>\n<h2 style=\"text-align: center;\">De la complexit\u00e9<\/h2>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">On passe souvent vite sur l\u2019id\u00e9e qu\u2019un vin est \u00ab \u00e9lev\u00e9 \u00bb. Et les \u00e9tiquettes s\u2019arr\u00eatent \u00e0 la vinification pour pr\u00e9ciser dans quelle barrique notre jus a tremp\u00e9 et pendant combien de temps. Logique synth\u00e9tique de l\u2019\u00e9tiquette et focus sur le process : \u00e9lev\u00e9 en \u00ab\u00a0f\u00fbt de ch\u00eane\u00a0\u00bb \u00e7a rassure ton porte-feuille et ton bon go\u00fbt. Mais remontons l\u2019\u00e9levage. Le vigneron \u00e9l\u00e8ve des vignes. Et un passage chez Clusel Roch vous redonne toute la dimension pratique et esth\u00e9tique de la chose. Humblement j\u2019\u00e9coute le topo. \u00c9lever des vignes ? Les tailler, les piocher, les nourrir, les vendanger en verts, \u00e0 maturit\u00e9, en sur-maturit\u00e9 : le vivant occupe son gardien. OK. Pr\u00e9cise un peu, remonte la bobine. \u00c9lever des vignes : les s\u00e9lectionner, les observer, les soigner pour qu\u2019elles tirent de leur terroir le maximum. \u00ab\u00a0Les clones qu\u2019on trouvait dans les p\u00e9pini\u00e8res, issus des s\u00e9lectionneurs, on voyait bien que quelque-chose n\u2019allait pas. On observait nos plus vieilles vignes, plant\u00e9es par le grand p\u00e8re en 1935, on a alors d\u00e9cid\u00e9 de s\u00e9lectionner nous m\u00eame, fallait se lancer\u00bb. D\u00e9gustez les diff\u00e9rents jus du domaine et appr\u00e9ciez : variation sur une nuance. Le m\u00eame c\u00e9page que vous classez rapidement dans votre palais : syrah = laisse moi deviner \u2026 \u00e9pices subtiles et fruits noirs ? Place doctement un cuir neuf et l\u2019immanquable violette, \u00e0 balancer selon les parcelles et les ann\u00e9es. Je retravaille un peu ta m\u00e9moire ? T\u2019as d\u00e9j\u00e0 senti des violettes ? La derni\u00e8re fois que t\u2019en a vu une c\u2019\u00e9tait sur le Air wick de tes chiottes. Il y a autant de violettes que de sous-bois quand il n\u2019y a qu\u2019une m\u00eame odeur de synth\u00e8se pour ton air wick, le d\u00e9o de ta bagnole et ton savon ramen\u00e9 d\u2019un duty free quelconque. Je crois que ce que m\u2019explique Brigitte c\u2019est un peu la m\u00eame, en mieux. Le domaine se revendique paysan : ch\u00e2taignes, mara\u00eechage et vignes forc\u00e9ment. Voir la photo et l\u2019int\u00e9gration pouss\u00e9e du paysage :<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-19\" alt=\"20130607-142600_2\" src=\"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/20130607-142600_2.jpg\" width=\"656\" height=\"655\" srcset=\"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/20130607-142600_2.jpg 656w, https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/20130607-142600_2-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/20130607-142600_2-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/20130607-142600_2-350x349.jpg 350w, https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/20130607-142600_2-460x459.jpg 460w, https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/20130607-142600_2-570x569.jpg 570w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 656px) 100vw, 656px\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Parce que c\u2019est tout le sens du m\u00e9tier de paysan (de pays): observer, \u00e9valuer, s\u00e9lectionner, avancer, revenir en arri\u00e8re. H\u00e9siter, reprendre, profiter de l\u2019al\u00e9a pour renforcer\u00a0ses convictions. \u00ab\u00a0Pendant 3 ans on a not\u00e9 : morphologie de la vigne, caract\u00e9ristiques des feuilles, production, qualit\u00e9 du raisin, des p\u00e9pins. Mon mari faisait le tour des vigne avec sa fille\u00a0\u00bb. On passe les d\u00e9tails techniques (contr\u00f4le sanitaire, greffage, trouver le bon p\u00e9pini\u00e9riste pour multiplier, les parcelles \u00e0 porte-greffes)\u2026 mais la base est ici : on ne se contente pas d\u2019un clone. On creuse autour pour \u00e9largir la palette. Et on creuse \u00e0 la pioche des terrains trop pentus pour \u00eatre m\u00e9canis\u00e9s. Variation autour d\u2019une nuance. Michael Gira : \u00ab\u00a0On commence tous nos morceau sur une guitare s\u00e8che qui sera enrichie puis cannibalis\u00e9e \u00e0 force d\u2019\u00eatre reprise\u00bb. Variation autour d\u2019une nuance, r\u00e9p\u00e9tition \u00e0 l\u2019identique et enrichissement progressif des harmonies qui se d\u00e9ploient lentement et s\u2019incrustent profond\u00e9ment. Un sillon dans la rocaille. Une parcelle si mince qu\u2019elle menace de s\u2019effondrer, une m\u00e9lodie si chiche qu\u2019elle menace de t\u2019effondrer. Les larmes et la sueur ont le m\u00eame gout. \u00ab\u00a0Les syrah ont \u00e9t\u00e9 s\u00e9lectionn\u00e9es pour le Languedoc, ils plantent \u00e0 5000 pied Ha, on est \u00e0 10 000 pieds\/ha. On va faire quoi avec des vaches \u00e0 lait ? Vendanger en vert \u00e7a occupe mais bon \u2026\u00a0\u00bb. \u00a0Il y a un paradoxe dans cette appr\u00e9ciation de l\u2019\u00e9tat de fait : on s\u2019adapte au climat et au terroir. Malgr\u00e9 les changements du climat (p\u00e9trochimie encore) ou du terrain (la force du poignet), le sol et le ciel sont finalement moins plastiques que la seule mati\u00e8re \u00e0 fa\u00e7onner : le vivant. La vigne est cette mati\u00e8re qui sait tirer d\u2019un milieu min\u00e9ral une saveur que l\u2019homme extrait. M\u00eame les levures sont indig\u00e8nes, elles font partie de notre patrimoine. Alors le vigneron tourne autour du vivant et soup\u00e8se cette machinerie \u00e0 muter, \u00e0 cro\u00eetre, \u00e0 explorer les sous-sols et s\u2019\u00e9lever par la lumi\u00e8re. La vigne qui sans cesse creuse, cro\u00eet, s\u2019\u00e9lance, mute. Et le vigneron qui la prot\u00e8ge \u00e0 force de mutilations, d\u2019entailles, s\u00e9lectionnant les hasards les plus \u00e0 m\u00eame d\u2019exprimer au mieux un potentiel que lui seul connait. Et Gira qui exploite le bruit exub\u00e9rant pour lui donner une forme longue et aust\u00e8re, un tunnel qui pour \u00eatre lumineux se doit d\u2019allonger sa partie t\u00e9n\u00e9breuse, \u00ab\u00a0On part de certaines notions et pr\u00e9ceptes pour les emmener ailleurs, on y ajoute plus de petits\u00a0\u00e9l\u00e9ments, plus de textures\u00a0\u00bb. Et l\u2019\u00e9coute, comme le go\u00fbt, qui doit d\u00e9tecter ces \u00e9l\u00e9ments pour appr\u00e9cier le chemin sur lequel les artistes nous embarquent.<\/p>\n<blockquote>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Aust\u00e9rit\u00e9 d\u2019une colline \u00e0 gravir,<br \/>\nchaque grain est unique.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><b><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-21\" alt=\"20130607-143158_2\" src=\"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/20130607-143158_2.jpg\" width=\"660\" height=\"658\" srcset=\"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/20130607-143158_2.jpg 660w, https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/20130607-143158_2-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/20130607-143158_2-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/20130607-143158_2-350x348.jpg 350w, https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/20130607-143158_2-460x458.jpg 460w, https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/20130607-143158_2-570x568.jpg 570w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 660px) 100vw, 660px\" \/><\/b><\/p>\n<h2 style=\"text-align: center;\">Business model<\/h2>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong>Gira, encore<\/strong>. M. Gira n\u2019est pas un\u00a0fluokids, il n\u2019aime pas le\u00a0peer-to-peer, il gronde l\u2019auditeur, de son autorit\u00e9 mystique. Il mart\u00e8le son argumentaire que n\u2019importe quel geek juge r\u00e9actionnaire au possible. \u00ab\u00a0Ach\u00e8te ce disque, ceci est mon travail\u00a0\u00bb Respecte et prot\u00e8ge le travail des artistes. Les vid\u00e9os de chatons sont gratuites, le\u00a0debil-streampeut vivre de sa seule publicit\u00e9, qui n\u2019est plus \u00e0 une fonction d\u00e9bilitante pr\u00e8s. Mais le travail des Swans se paye. Et forc\u00e9ment on ne trouvera pas le prix juste, on n\u2019ira pas t\u00e9l\u00e9charger et on trouvera cette galette trop ch\u00e8re, m\u00eame achet\u00e9e au stand, m\u00eame achet\u00e9e en direct sur le label du p\u00e8re d\u2019un tas de mouvements labellis\u00e9s proto\u00a0(l\u2019histoire est la premi\u00e8re \u00e0 s\u00e9lectionner massivement, des courants cr\u00e9atifs et leurs refoulements du folk \u00e0 la musique industrielle). Peu de chance de trouver Michael faire un\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.the-drone.com\/magazine\/swans-interview\/\">harlem shake<\/a>\u00a0avec ses petits amis. \u00c9trange vision dans cette \u00e9poque o\u00f9 tout est gratuit, on est les enfants terribles de la gratuit\u00e9, \u00e9lev\u00e9 au 20minutes on s\u2019habitue. On s\u2019\u00e9pargne \u00e0 peine l\u2019argument \u00ab\u00a0les gratuits sont futiles mais ils redonnent l\u2019int\u00e9r\u00eat de la lecture aux jeunes\u00a0\u00bb Aveux de quelle vision de la baisse de la fertilit\u00e9 ? \u00ab\u00a0des morceaux gratuits\u00a0\u00bb c\u2019est fun, c\u2019est frais, c\u2019est jubilatoire, \u00e7a rempli les playlist des bloggeurs qui peut \u00eatre vivront de la pub si le trafic est bon. \u00ab\u00a0Et l\u00e0 tu payes\u00a0\u00bb C\u2019est exigent, c\u2019est complexe, c\u2019est rude. L\u2019hiver on fait des piquets (\u00ab\u00a0\u00e7a n\u2019a pas de sens, acheter des piquets \u00e0 l\u2019autre bout de l\u2019Europe quand on a tous ici des ch\u00e2taigniers\u00a0\u00bb), on remonte tout \u00e0 la main, \u00e0 la pioche, on \u00e9tend le fumier \u00e0 la main, du compost. On tient l\u2019herbe, et on redonne de la structure au sol. Dernier carr\u00e9 de r\u00e9sistance une parcelle trop pentue, trop loin. On\u00a0doit y passer un coup de round up et \u00e7a nous fend le c\u0153ur. Comme si l\u2019<a href=\"http:\/\/fr.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Agent_orange\">agent orange<\/a>\u00a0d\u00e9barquait dans la prairie fleurie. D\u00e9cid\u00e9ment trop de Vietnam sur cette c\u00f4te blonde. \u00ab\u00a0Forc\u00e9ment \u00e7a a un coup.\u00a0\u00bb Alors les artisans organisent la raret\u00e9, s\u00e9rie limit\u00e9e par la nature et l\u2019effort, s\u00e9lection par la main, le temps, l\u2019espace. La croissance infinie du march\u00e9, ton disque dur remplis de mp3, tes promos sur iTunes, cette boulimie sans grande influence sur la mani\u00e8re dont les jingles sauveront ta vie. Cette inflation explosive de l\u2019\u00e9largissement des choix sans issues me laissent coi. Que restera-t-il ? Le monde XXL a parfois besoin de se reconcentrer, de recaser les feux d\u2019artifices dans leur poudre originelle. C\u2019est peut \u00eatre aussi simple que cela : la densit\u00e9 que l\u2019on trouve dans cette obsession artisanale. Cette fa\u00e7on d\u2019improviser en gardant une direction ferme. 2500 bouteilles sur les terroirs les plus nobles, faudra pas se battre, on pourra toujours se rattraper en cliquant quelques likes pour se d\u00e9fouler. Ent\u00eatant, pr\u00e9cis, r\u00e9p\u00e9titif, une texture s\u2019enrichissant autour d\u2019une \u00e9troite fen\u00eatre sensitive, une longueur parfaite. <strong>Les Grandes Places ne meurent jamais<\/strong>.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-large wp-image-20\" alt=\"20130607-143057_2\" src=\"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/20130607-143057_2-1024x1019.jpg\" width=\"940\" height=\"935\" srcset=\"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/20130607-143057_2-1024x1019.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/20130607-143057_2-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/20130607-143057_2-300x298.jpg 300w, https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/20130607-143057_2-350x348.jpg 350w, https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/20130607-143057_2-460x457.jpg 460w, https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/20130607-143057_2-770x766.jpg 770w, https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/20130607-143057_2-570x567.jpg 570w, https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/20130607-143057_2-940x935.jpg 940w, https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/20130607-143057_2.jpg 1688w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 940px) 100vw, 940px\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><!--nextpage--><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">CLICK HERE FOR <a href=\"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/clusel-roch-vs-swans\/\">FRENCH VERSION<\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><b><span class=\"wi-dropcap\"><span style=\"display:none;\">C<\/span><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-content\/themes\/blank\/images\/aoc\/aoc-c.gif\" alt=\"c\" \/><\/span>\u00f4te R\u00f4tie wines are a must for name droppers. <\/b>Gully hillsides, big lettering, and\u00a0 vietnamese ricefield-like density. It\u2019s all the intensity of manpower with a view on petrochemistry, all the picturesque of the northern Rhone Valley, all the <a href=\"http:\/\/www.vinsdevienne.com\/html\/pdf\/archeveques\/FT_Archeveques_Cote-Rotie.pdf\" target=\"_blank\">unaffordable legends<\/a> of the C\u00f4te Blonde and the C\u00f4te Brune, that make this place sort of a Mulholand Drive for the Rhone region &#8211; where light and dark hair have been sharing their destiny for aeons. This terroir gives the word \u00ab\u00a0r\u00f4ti\u00a0\u00bb (roasted) all its nobility, despite the challenge. When associated with poultry, it evokes greasy displays, age-old spits and approximative food. But when associated with the word \u00ab\u00a0C\u00f4te\u00a0\u00bb, everything changes. It\u2019s all about fine tasting and thrills for the nouveau riche. Yes, with its very coveted micaschist and granit, this is an exceptional soil. So you could easily see Jay-Z soon leave Courvoisier to the bliss of the northern Syrah. Yet this morning, by the terrible weather of a never-ending month of May looking like November, this is not hip-hop that that comes to my ears. It\u2019s Lunacy that resonates, its long lasting taste in mouth, so precise in its complexity. Swans VS Clusel Roch, stubbornness had to have a taste and an ear.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><iframe loading=\"lazy\" src=\"\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/-P7fBUDkb90?rel=0\" height=\"360\" width=\"640\" allowfullscreen=\"\" frameborder=\"0\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><img decoding=\"async\" title=\"More...\" alt=\"\" src=\"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-includes\/js\/tinymce\/plugins\/wordpress\/img\/trans.gif\" \/><\/p>\n<h2 style=\"text-align: center;\">Of complexity<\/h2>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">One usually doesn\u2019t give much thought to the idea of \u00ab\u00a0raised\u00a0\u00bb wine. Bottle labels still amount to wine processing, to specify in which barrel the juice soaked and for how long. Labeling synthetic logic and focus on the process \u2026 the \u00ab\u00a0aged in oak barrels\u00a0\u00bb mention conforts your good taste and your budget. But let\u2019s go back to the notion of raising. The winemaker raises vines. And a visit to the Clusel Roch estate awakens all the practical and esthetic dimension of the fact. I humbly listen the presentation speech. Raise vines? Cut them, dig them, nurture them, harvest them before ripening, then when ripe, then over-ripe : the living material fully occupy its nurse. Ok. Let\u2019s rewind that for a second. Raise wines : select them, observe them, treat them so they can get the best out of the soil. \u00ab\u00a0<i>The clones we used to find in nurseries, coming from selectors \u2026 something was obviously wrong. Then we looked at our oldest vines, planted by our grandfather in 1935. So we decided to select ourselves, we just had to get into it<\/i>\u00a0\u00bb. Have a taste at the various juices of the estate and enjoy : it\u2019s all about variation on a shade. The same grape you quickly classify on your palate &#8211; Syrah : let me guess \u2026 subtle spices and blackberries? You\u2019ll probably cleverly add some young leather and this unmistakable violet\u2026 Let me refresh your memory for a bit. Have you ever smelled violets? Last time you did it was with your toilet bomb. There as many species of violets as types of undergrowth forest, while there is only one synthetic fragrance for your Air Wick, your car deodorizer and your generic duty free soap. I believe that\u2019s what Brigitte is explaining to me, but a lot better. The estate claims itself as a peasant one : chestnuts, market garden, and of course, wine. See the landscape integration:<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"20130607-142600_2\" src=\"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/20130607-142600_2.jpg\" width=\"656\" height=\"655\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Because it is the very foundation of a peasant\u2019s (peasant : from the old french word <i>pa\u00efsant<\/i> meaning \u2018one from the <i>pays\u2019, <\/i>or countryside) craft : observe, evaluate, select, go forward and backwards. Hesitate, rework, take advantage of the vagaries to strengthen your beliefs. \u00ab\u00a0<em>We noted down everything for 3 years : vine morphology, leaf characteristics, production, grape and seed quality. My husband went around the vines with his daughter\u00a0<\/em>\u00bb. Let\u2019s skip technicalities (sanitary control, grafting, finding the good tree surgeon to multiply, rootstock parcels\u2026) but this is the heart of it all : you don\u2019t settle for clones. You dig around to widen the palette. And you dig with a pick the lands too steep to be mechanized. Variation on a shade. Michael Gira : \u00ab\u00a0<em>I write the songs on the acoustic guitar, then I bring them to the band (\u2026) I allow the band and myself to then build them into something that becomes a band song.<\/em>\u00a0\u00bb Variation on a shade. Identical repetition and progressive enrichment of harmonics which slowly deploy, but deeply settle in. A groove in the rock. A parcel so thin it threatens to collapse, a melody so rich YOU threaten to collapse. Sweat and tears share the same taste. \u00ab\u00a0<em>Syrahs have been selected for the Languedoc region, where they plant 5000 grapevines by hectare, but here we plant 10 000 grapevines by hectare. What are we going to do with cash cows? Harvesting before ripening is a nice hobby, but still \u2026<\/em>\u00a0\u00bb. There\u2019s a paradox in this appreciation of the facts : we adapt to the climate and the soil. Despite climate change (petrochemistry, again) or soil change (manpower), soil and sky eventually are less elastic than the only material you work with : the living. The vine is a material that knows how to extract a flavour from the rock, which in turn will be extracted by man. Even yeast cells are indigenous, they are part of the heritage. So the winemaker works around the living and weighs this ever mutating, growing, underground exploring, light sensitive machine. The winemaker protects it with the force of mutilation, cuts, and selection of the best chances to express a potential that only the vine knows. And Gira exploits exuberant noise in order to give it a long and austere form, like a tunnel that needs to be long and dark before releasing light : \u00ab\u00a0<em>I provide the impetus for it and I guide it along the way, but it grows through us playing it live as a band, and everybody has input so it grows organically<\/em>\u00a0\u00bb. And listening is like tasting : it is about detecting elements to appreciate the journey in which artists get us into.<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>Austerity of a hill to climb,<br \/>\nevery grape is unique.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><b><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"20130607-143158_2\" src=\"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/20130607-143158_2.jpg\" width=\"660\" height=\"658\" \/><\/b><\/p>\n<h2 style=\"text-align: center;\">Business model<\/h2>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong>Gira, again<\/strong>. M. Gira is no fluokid. He doesn\u2019t like peer-to-peer, and scolds the listener with his mystic authority. He hammers this point in, even if any geek may find this stance incredibly reactionary. \u00ab\u00a0Buy this record, it\u2019s my craft\u00a0\u00bb. Respect and protect the craft of an artist. Kitten videos are free, idiocratic networks can live from their own publicity, it\u2019s far from their first debilitating function. But Gira\u2019s work is to be paid. One might find the price is unfair, one might not download it, and then find the record too expensive, even from the merch table, even from <a href=\"http:\/\/younggodrecords.com\/\" target=\"_blank\">Young God Records<\/a><b>,<\/b> website held by Gira, breeder of many \u00ab\u00a0proto\u00a0\u00bb labelled genres (history is the first to massively select from artistic movements to its subcategories, from folk to industrial). There is very little hope to see Michael do a <a href=\"http:\/\/www.the-drone.com\/magazine\/swans-interview\/\" target=\"_blank\">Harlem Shake<\/a> with his friends. That is a strange thing to be seen in this \u00ab\u00a0everything for free\u00a0\u00bb era. We are the spoiled children of gratuity, raised with free Metro newspapers and used to it. We barely spare ourselves the \u00ab\u00a0free newspapers are futile but they restore the interest for reading\u00a0\u00bb false argument. Free music is fun, it\u2019s fresh, it\u2019s exhilarating, it fills bloggers\u2019 playlists who might live from publicity if the traffic is good. But the \u00ab\u00a0Buy my record\u00a0\u00bb attitude is demanding, it\u2019s complex and it\u2019s even rude. By winter pickets are built (\u00ab\u00a0<em>it makes no sense to buy pickets from the other side of Europe when here we all have chestnut trees<\/em>\u00a0\u00bb), everything is manufactured by hand or with a pick. The grass is handled, the soil has its structure restored. The last square meter of resistance is a parcel that\u2019s too steep, too far. To be forced to give it some Round Up is a heartbreak, as if <a href=\"http:\/\/fr.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Agent_orange\" target=\"_blank\">Agent Orange<\/a> invaded the floral prairie. Definitely too much of Vietnam on this C\u00f4te Blonde. \u00ab\u00a0<em>Inevitably, all this has a cost<\/em>\u00a0\u00bb. So craftsmen organize rarity, series limited by nature and effort, selected by hands, time and space. The infinite market growth, your hard drive full of mp3s, all your iTunes coupons, this tasteless bulimia of jingles that are supposed to save your life. This explosive inflation of dead-end options never cease to baffle me. What will be left of all this? This XXL world sometimes needs to refocus, to take the fireworks back into their original powder. It may be as simple as this : the density you only can find in the craftsman\u2019s obsession. This way he has to improvise while keeping a focused direction. 25 000 bottles of the finest terroirs &#8211; don\u2019t fight over these &#8211; you can always blow off some steam by clicking a few likes. Heady, precise, repetitive, a texture enriched around a small sensitive window, a perfect length on the palate. <b>Great places never die<\/b>.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"20130607-143057_2\" src=\"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/01\/20130607-143057_2-1024x1019.jpg\" width=\"940\" height=\"935\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>CLICK HERE FOR ENGLISH VERSION La C\u00f4te R\u00f4tie c\u2019est le name dropping \u00e0 l\u2019am\u00e9ricaine, c\u2019est le coteau ravin\u00e9, les grandes enseignes et une densit\u00e9 digne des rizi\u00e8res au Vietnam. C\u2019est l\u2019intensit\u00e9 de main d\u2019\u0153uvre avec vue sur la p\u00e9trochimie, tout le charme de la vall\u00e9e du Rh\u00f4ne septentrionale, les\u00a0l\u00e9gendes impayables\u00a0sur la C\u00f4te Blonde et la C\u00f4te Brune qui font de cet endroit le Mulholand drive du 69. Depuis la nuit des temps les chevelures se partagent les destins. C\u2019est l\u2019appellation qui donne ses lettres de noblesses au mot \u00ab r\u00f4ti \u00bb, pourtant pas facile. Associ\u00e9 au poulet ; c\u2019est vitrine&nbsp;&hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":204,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/92"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=92"}],"version-history":[{"count":20,"href":"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/92\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":245,"href":"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/92\/revisions\/245"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/204"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=92"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=92"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/wineandnoise.org\/articles\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=92"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}